Product thermal capacity: | 4-35 t/h |
Working pressure: | 1.0-2.5 MPA |
Outlet temperature:: | 184-350 ℃ |
Available fuel: | Bituminous coal, lean coal, anthracite |
Available industries: | Heating, chemical, food, tobacco, textile, print and dyeing, feed, medicine, building materials, wine, hospital |
1. The main parts you'll need for this build can be changed wildly depending on your available materials. I picked up most of my parts from my loca2. First you will need a small soup can and a drill bit just slightly smaller then the tubing you plan to use. In this step we will drill 2 holes i3. Once you have the contents of your can removed you will drill the 3rd hole to work as the filling hole. I chose to use a small brass fitting and4. At this stage you can cut a small section of tubing and feed it into the sight glass holes. Clean up any remaining glue reside from the can as w5. Here I used the boiler can to slowly bend the brass sheet to form the main support. By working the metal slowly in your hands you should be able6. I drilled a centered hole to allow my fill connector to pass thru the boiler housing. When working with thin brass like this its best to start w7. Using the boiler housing as a guide mark the location for the steam output pipe. I used a short section of copper tube which fits VERY snuggly i8. Now that we have a functioning air-tight boiler we need to support it inside the brass housing. I used small 1" wide sections of brass bent into9. As I also intend to use this boiler to run a small engine or turbine it was important that I could close off the steam supply to allow the main10. After searching around my house for a suitable container to wrap the copper heat exchanger pipes around I finally stumbled upon an old body spr
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